LIZ DAWES

A quick chat with local designer Liz Dawes behind the label Cocoon and her Fremantle store. 

 

When did you first start your own label?

About 6 years ago now

What did you do prior to Cocoon and how did it all start?

I did a fine arts degree in Sydney and did a few textile classes at Central Tafe but otherwise not a lot to do with fashion, as I was a chef in my own café in Sydney for many years. I started out with printing home wares and had a small market at the Arts Centre Bazaar. The label Hustle asked me to join them and produce my home wares and expand my range into clothing in their shop and from there people slowly dropped away, Hustle could no longer afford to continue with their business and I took Hustle over as my own label Cocoon.

Did you find the study that you did worthwhile?

I really just went for the printing facilities, I learnt the most from actually owning my own café and learning all about the business side because I don’t think you will ever really understand that or know what you’re doing until you’ve done it yourself. Running your own business is a whole other world that you certainly don’t get taught at Uni or Tafe.

I know you do a lot of your own fabrics, have you employed other sewers or pattern makers?

I have a few sewers but otherwise I do it all myself. I make up my own patterns, print and dye my own fabric, cut out the patterns and then send them to my sewers to be made up for samples. The business isn’t big enough to be able to hire a million other people to do it for me.

Do you source your fabric locally or internationally?

I would love to say that I travel a lot, but no I get my fabric from anywhere and everywhere in Perth. A few companies from over east that obviously get their fabric internationally but I just take whatever I can find at the cheapest price I can find!

You’ve got a few other labels in your store, are they all WA based or Australian and international?

I only stock local labels, you have to have that point of difference from other stores and mine is keeping it really local. I only stock 2 other labels beside Cocoon (both from Melbourne) and they are both basics as my stuff is already graphic and loud enough.

What do you find most challenging?

Definitely just owning your own store. There’s a whole lot more to organize beside just your label, there’s bills, rent, shop fittings, advertising etc. I’m lucky I had my own shop before so I knew what I was doing. I don’t advertise through Facebook or any online media either, so advertising and building up a strong customer market is difficult too.

Any advice for someone wanting to start their own label or business?

Do a marketing course before starting, there’s so much more to know. And work in the industry first to really hone in on a certain skill and get as much knowledge as you can from working.

TEA PARTY !!

Recently just entered the 'Styleaid' competition. The idea was to create a garment that would fit in the theme of a childrens tea part, using 80% pink. unfortunetly i didn't win, but i did get into round one of the eliminations.

Cultural Signposts in Fashion

Pop art and op art were one of the first art trends to appear on clothing designs. They were popular art movements in the 1960’s, and while they were separate movements the public mixed them. Op art was first publicized by Time magazine resulting in fashion designers picking up these trends and modifying them for use in their clothing ranges. Chain stores advertised black and white themed clothing and bold pop art prints through television commercials, magazine advertisements and window displays in large department stores.

Street art is another major art form that has progressed into the fashion industry. Banksy is one of the most well-known street artists around the world. From gluing prints onto walls, billboards and streets all over the world, to then having a feature film produced about him, street art has become very recognized by the public. While Banksy now has his own clothing line with his designs featured onto t-shirts, hoodies and other street apparel, other designers are too jumping on the street art wagon and it is forever evolving. Street art is also featured in magazines and found in advertising events such as skating competitions and music events.

Mary Katrantzou is an influential designer in the fashion industry today. Her designs feature bold paintings, illustrations and graphic designs which are then printed onto fabrics and collaged together to create contrasting art. Her collections are featured on runways, in magazines and on blogs. She also did a ten piece collection for Topshop, which is having a major influence on street fashion.

FASHION DOLL :)

This is my very own fashion doll, constructed within a three hour class! I beaded the whole top of the bodice and then gathered up some sheer black fabric for the skirt! These colours are similar to what i would like to use for my end of year range :)

The class

Cute scenery Chenoah drew up quickly for a fun little photoshoot

added some wool for hair so my model wasnt bold lol.

PRESSURE TEST!!!

Creating our own eco garment:
Mia and i partnered up to create a recycled, wearble garment using a few opshop finds. In this 'pressure test' we used a blue sleeve shirt, pleated flowery skirt and a sheer maxy skirt with navy lineing.
The following pictures give you a a quick idea of how we made a eco friendly modern chic dress!!

We begun with a simple top, cutting off the sleeves and sewing a few different buttons onto it.

Next, we tucked up the back of the top and attatched the lining of a old skirt so it draped beautifully down in a v-shape.

The outside layer of the skirt was then attatched to the front.

You can attatched the skirts to the side for a draped effect or leave them hanging for a flowy effect!

:)!!

GORMAN the queen of green

Lisa Gorman launched her label in 1999, in Fitzroy, Melbourne. Her first collection was titled ‘Less Than 12 Degrees’. This was the beginning of Gorman becoming an iconic Australian fashion label and she now has stores Australia wide, online and opening in NZ very soon.


Gorman Organic was introduced in 2007, in response to increasing environmental awareness, made possible by manufacturing innovations in fabric production. Blended throughout the main collection, Gorman Organic offers customers a sustainable choice without compromising good design and quality.

All garments in the Gorman Organic range are either certified organic yarns (such as bamboo and organic cotton), meaning that the materials used to create the garments are organically farmed and produced without pesticides; or the garments are sustainable, which means that the materials may not be specifically organic, but come from sustainable farming, non-chemical processing and/or closed loop production means.

 

 

Lisa Gorman is known as the 'Green Queen'. Here's a few reasons why:
Gorman reduced packaging by 90% and only use recyclable packaging materials, such as LDPE, when required. They use energy-efficient lighting and extensive recycling practices with 100% accredited green power. Gorman also hired an environmental consultant to work with the label, in both Australia and in its overseas manufacturing facilities to reduce the label’s environmental impact.

The brand’s shopping bags are made from 100 per cent recycled paper and if a customer refuses one, the bag’s value is donated to Friends of the Earth. A donation of $5 from every green and serene T-shirt sold also goes to the Friends of the Earth organisation. Gorman is a strong promoter of pedal power and as well as creating one-off Gorman bicycles annually, the brand is known to give discounts to customers who ride their bikes to the store

 

The Ship Shop is a ‘mini Gorman’ store within a giant recycled shipping container, stocking a great range of Gorman’s organic products. The Ship Shop tours around Australia, and visits all the major fashion festivals.

 

FAD VS TREND VS CLASSIC FASHION

Some pieces of clothing is called ‘Classic Fashion.’ It simply means the fashion that stays indefinitely. The clothing looks flattering on almost anyone, therefore making it a wardroom must-have. Classic Fashion tends to stick to the classic colours, such as whites, blacks, navy’s and browns.

.Classic :The little black dress is a perfect example of a classic fashion. It’s a basic, simple necessity that can be worn for many different occasions. It’s the type of garment that is timless. No matter what designer makes the little black dress, it is unlikely that any would know if it was made in the 1970’s or today.

A fad is taken up with great enthusiasm for a breif period of time, some would call it a craze

Fad: A big Fad at the moment is floral denim, although its super cool now, it most likely wont last long. It's largely influenced by street fashion!

Floral denim was also a must have wardrobe item in the 70's

Trend: A trend has staying power and generally lasts the decade it was concieved. Today a big trend is Pastel. This Year has had alot of pastels on its runways. Philip Lim, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Vera Vang and many, many more designers have taken on this big trend for spring/summer 2012!

FROM FASHION PLATES TO MAGAZINES

Early Costume and Fashion Plates

 

Costume plates are based on the fashions of the past. Fashion Plates are based on the fashions of the possible future. White both are similar, they are both also very different. Costume plates almost always include national, theatrical, court and royal dress. Fashion plates can be traced back to as far as the 16th century and reached their peak in the 19th century.

In 1778, Jacques Esnauts and Michel Rapilly of Paris joined forces and created their issue, 'La Gallerie des Modes', a publication of coloured Fashion plates. Between 1778 and 1787, they both issued 342 figure plates and 73 hat plates.

Heideloff' drawing

The first Fashion plate begun in England and it was called, The Lady;s Magazine in 1770. A range of other magazines such as, Cabinet des Modes 1785-89 and Journal de la Modeet du Gout 1790-93 also ran in this era.

La Belle Assemble was another very important and influenecial magazine that ran for 63 years. It contained hand colour fashion plates aswell as sheet music and articles of general interest so it had a wider range of information for a larger target audience.

La Belle Assemblee



Nicolaus Wilhelm von Heideloff created the 'Gallery of Fashion' and promised that it feature accurate styles worn by ladies of rank and fashion. Each issure he released containes two hand coloured drawings finished with gold and silver paints. In total, he issued 217 Georgian fashion plates between 1794 and 1803.

pretty things

What is a Zine?

Zine's are a shortened version of a magazine and are mainly targeting a limited audience. They are a inexpensively produced, self published, underground publication, ranging from hand drawn to printed and even online.

The exact date of the first zine is unknown, roughly in the 1970's, but Benjamin Franklin could argue that ( if he was alive) because in the 18th century he started a small literary magazine for psychiatric patients at a Pennsylvania. This could be considered the very first zine because it captures the essence of the philosophy and meaning of a Zine. 

Here a few cool Fashion Zines :

1. A fad that quickly came and quickly passed, was the american flag on anything and everything.

2. The crop top can be pulled off, if worn with a cute high waisted skirt or shorts but wearing it with hipsters has most certainly gone out of fashion.

3. Wearing ten million rings and making your hands weigh a few kg extra used to be a huge hit. Nowadays its one massive staple ring or lots of simple smaller rings.

4. Once people realised that growing your hair back takes ummm, a long time, they realized this was a bad idea.

5. Jeggings... Feel like leggings but look like jeans..

 6. While it had a great run, its time to move on. Mustard colour is being replaced with lemon yellows this year.

7. Crocs, no comment necessary

8. Double denim! Some hated, some loved..

9. What was Alexander Mcqueen thinking. The 'Armidillo' Heel is getting alot of names, and strange is one of them.. WHYYYYY

10. Gladiator Sandals.